September 15, 2009

Mounting my LCD TV on the Wall

Filed under: Electronics,Home Improvement — spiro @ 7:26 pm

I ordered the mount from Monoprice, since they are much cheaper than the ones you see in stores. The reviews for Monoprice mounts are good, except for the lag bolts that apparently tend to strip when torqued, but those things are only 50 cents at hardware stores, so that’s not really an issue. The one thing is you gotta be really careful when choosing the mount as to its size. They advertise them by TV size and weight; size being a good indication but not guaranteed to fit, and weight not being an issue most of the time unless you have a gargantuant heavy plasma. What really matters is the VESA specification, which is the distance in millimeters (yay! metric!) between the mount holes on the TV. I’d advise choosing a mount that’s slightly bigger, just in case. For instance, my TV (52″ LG Scarlet LCD) spec is 800×400, meaning that the holes are spaced 800 mm apart horizontally and 400 mm apart vertically. The mount I got is 850×450, but really you’d be pushing it if you needed it 850 mm apart, as in you’d have to screw in the bottom rail lock from inside with a spacious 3″ clearance between the TV and the wall.

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After opening it up, I went to ACE to get some lag bolts, spacers, a pilot hole drill bit, and spacers. The lag bolts are to replace the ones supplied because as I said earlier there are lots of reports of people stripping bolt heads. So, I went with ones similar to the ones provided, that is, 5/16″ thick by 3.5″ long. I also got some washers to match, since they’re so cheap. To drill the pilot holes, some online research shows that the recommended size of a pilot hole on soft wood is 3/4 of the bolt’s diameter. So that makes it 15/64″. I got plastic spacers because the ones supplied with the mount were a bit big and the bolt wouldn’t go in deep enough for comfort, and you want things to be tight, otherwise you can damage the threads. I also got rubber flanges to protect the swanky red finish on the back of the TV.

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The next part is finding the studs, and yes, you absolutely have to mount it on studs. Drywall is extremely brittle and won’t hold a TV. For that you’ll need a stud finder and a laser level. So, locate and mark the center and edges of studs on the wall with the stud finder. Normally they’re 16″ on center apart, but don’t count on that, some contractors like to improvise. Now comes time to decide where you want the TV, both vertically or horizontally. For that I placed the bracket on the TV and took a few measurements to find out where the TV would end up based on the pilot holes. Horizontally the leeway you have is the holes on the wall plate. You do want the TV to be more or less centered on the mount. Vertically, although aesthetically it might look better on the center of the wall or on top of a fireplace, it’s recommended to have the center of the TV at eye level when sitting down, which is roughly 40-45 inches off the ground. And I would avoid putting it above a fireplace, as it can get quite hot up there, and sooty if it’s a wood-burning fireplace. Find a nice painting to decorate the mantle instead of putting at TV!

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So, once you figure out where the mount should be, go ahead and mark the location of the lag bolts using the mount. As an extra check, I drove a small nail horizontally at 1/4 intervals to figure out where the edges of the studs were, just to be sure, as hitting the edge of a stud will cause it to crack. After that, I screwed in the mount on the wall with drywall screws, to make things a bit easier. I also marked the opening I’d poke to pass the wiring through the wall. Next I took out the mount to cut out a rectangle with an exacto knife (use a drywall saw if you have one). I made another such opening on the botton, where the wires would come out. I then installed a low voltage flange you can find at a hardware store and a nose plate which you can find at Monoprice or Fry’s.

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Next I passed the wires. I decided to get wires for all the ports my TV has, with the exception of the side ports and optical audio out. So that makes for a VGA+audio cable, coax, digital audio out, 3x HDMI and 2x component. Get lengths of at least 12ft, otherwise they may be too short.

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Once that’s done, it’s time to have a good friend help you out to take out the TV pedestal, scew in the mounting brackets and ceremoniously hook the TV on the wall.

And for the final touch, I’ve added some low voltage LED bars from Ikea :)

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April 8, 2009

Bye Bye Comcast DVR

Filed under: Electronics,Rant,Technology — spiro @ 12:22 am

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Today I got rid of my Comcast DVR. For a couple of reasons:

- I got a bill for $105 for TV alone this month, as my “introductory promotions” ran out. And NO, I did NOT order any porn channels or anything like that, that’s what torrents are for :) Generally, I watch TV rather infrequently, just catching up on my DVR’d series, like House, Heroes, The Office, Better off Ted, The Big Bang Theory, and a few others, local news, and CBUT (Vancouver’s CBC station) which Comcast distributes at a very poor quality for some reason. Does that justify me paying over $50 + $15 a month for the DVR when the Comcast CEO just took home an obscene $24.7 million last year? I believe not!

- The DVR is really a stupid fucking piece of shit. Granted, at least it’s easy to use, but beyond that, there’s not much to it. Accessing menu functions is slow as hell, the thing crashes all the time, it’s ridiculous! To add insult to injury, they gave me an old box without HDMI output, so I had to resort to analog component or DVI-to-HDMI. But, my main gripe with it is the tiny hard disk in the days of 1.5 TB hard disks being cheap and widely available. And, there’s no practical way to export recorded shows. The only possible way to do it would be to stream it through Firewire, which means that you have to “play” the show as there is no way of copying the contents of the hard disk directly, and even then, only local broadcast channels are decrypted.

- There are plenty of free options today to watch TV shows and movies, both legally and illegally, like Bittorrent, Hulu, Netflix (nice use of Silverlight!), with minimal to no advertisements, making TV-watching more efficient, and you don’t have to sit and watch irritating, screaming idiots trying to make you waste money on stupid useless shit. The quality is very decent too in comparison to cable or broadcast. In spite of all the “full HD” claims cable operators like to make, the audio and video on their services is still very highly compressed with fully visible compression artifacts, as there is still no cost-effective way of transmitting uncompressed full high definition content further than the HDMI cable run between devices.

So, now that I got an HTPC all set up, time to enjoy it! I decided to keep the “basic limited” TV service, as it only amounts to $5 a month over what I currently pay for Internet, with the “multiple service discount”, otherwise, I’d just get one of those HDTV antennae, which should give me good results since there arent many reception obstacles in my area, and if I get the urge to watch CNN, MTV, or any of this crap, there’s always the clubroom and gym in my condo.

February 22, 2009

DVI-to-HDMI input on the LG Scarlet

Filed under: Electronics,Technology — spiro @ 6:12 pm

I got myself a nice little present on Black Friday, which to get I had to wait in the wee hours in the morning in Renton’s Fry’s. I got the LG Scarlet (52LG60) for $1200. Not bad :) Anyway, so this is like the obligatory “show and tell” post…

One of the things I wanted to do with that TV was hook up an eventual media center PC. Now all I have on it is my Macbook Pro :)

So, First thing I tried hooking it up through VGA with an old monitor cable which wasn’t great, until my Monoprice order arrived. In it was a VGA+Audio cable along with a DVI-to-HDMI cable. Great, let’s try HDMI. I was expecting a crystal-clear picture, but that’s not what I got. The picture had a reduced color depth, super high contrast and the text was bleeding. So, I tried different things, including disabling ClearType which made it worse, so here’s what worked.

Display settings

Set resolution to 1920×1080 at 59Hz. You might have to click the Force button on the ATI settings dialog. The 59Hz part Intrigues me. If I pick 60Hz on HDMI, the TV says “Invalid Format” and on VGA it shrinks the picture to 4:3 aspect ratio, even if 1920×1080 is widescreen.

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Set the overscan to MAX. If you don’t, you won’t get 1:1 pixel ratio, which means the image will be resized. You DON’T want that.

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Selecting overscan will hide the edges. Set the aspect ratio to Just Scan. Just Scan is just fancy terminology for 1:1.

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Disable the variety of picture enhancements. They mess around with the color depth. Video looks good, but your desktop won’t. I do leave the intelligent sensor ON.

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This improved the picture quite a bit, although it’s still not to my liking.

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The vertical lines seem OK, the horizontal ones, not so much…

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The “info” bar and input list:

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The I/O Panel

My biggest complaint is the lack of analog audio out, it only has digital RCA and optical audio out. I don’t have a surround system yet, just a bookshelf stereo system, and I don’t care much for them.

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So, I had to get this thing from GefenTV. Cost me around $70. The only problem is that it won’t decode dolby, just LPCM. They just came out with this guy that will do Dolby. I might just get it eventually.

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And here’s my stuck pixel, located around the center of the screen. As you see, the green pixel is black (always ON), so the effect of this is that the pixel is magenta. I’ll try running one of the tools that displays white snow. I’m a hesitant about using a pencil or eraser on it. I don’t want a dent on the surface.

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And here’s how the logo looks :) It’s quite nice actually, but if the LEDs annoy you there’s an on-screen option to turn it off. In case you are wonering, it is totally transparent, behind is the wall (you can see the texture on the wall).

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